Wednesday 9 November 2016

Visiting the Kruger in November 2005

Tuesday 15 November 2005
I have been organising the packing for our trip to the Kruger Game Reserve in South Africa. This has been going on for weeks now and here we are, 6 days away from our flight.
I have packed, unpacked, repacked several times - trying to pack things that were in rigid packages into softer covers. So many things to take for such a short trip. Medicines, necessities and ‘might needs’ etc. Will we have room for our clothes I wonder?
We are to spend the night of arrival in a hotel in Sandton, 4 nights in the Kruger and two nights back at the hotel.

Saturday 19 November 2005
Our big bag was far too heavy so borrowed a wheelie bag from Maureen. However today we decided that wheelie bags were a good idea so bought a couple for ourselves and will use those. So now things are not too tightly packed or too bulkily and the bags are not too heavy. Also means we can take a tripod for filming.

Sunday 20 November 2005 Joe’s back went out as he lifted the big case onto the bed. He said he twisted himself.

Monday 21 November 2005
6.15 Arrived at Heathrow  just before 6 and now in Terminal 1 and Joe is off getting drinks, tea and coffee.

Tuesday 22 November 2005
We are now at Sandton at the hotel. Usual tiring flight with unappetising food, crowded, cramped uncomfortable seats. Exhausted. Couldn’t sleep on flight and when we thought we might just be dropping off some people stood behind out seats. We were right at the back where there are just two seats which give one a lot more space to the side and they talked loudly for ages. I told them they were disturbing us - it had never entered their minds - profuse apologies.
Joe’s had tremendous trouble with his back on the plane which was extremely painful and at one time thought he would not be able to get out of his seat.
It was a complete shambles at Johannesburg Airport going through customs and immigration - too many people in very small an area and outside little regard for parking cars at the entrance. Found our guide Joy easily at airport. She seems a very considerate person, wants to do everything for us.
Joy drove us all round the houses to our hotel to give us a chance to get to know each other and discuss what we had in mind for our trip. We leave at 7.30am tomorrow morning.
Went up to our room and lay down for a sleep just after 1 and slept until 5.30ish.
The air conditioned suite consists of a lounge with comfortable seating and TV with a kitchen, cupboards, fridge, cooker and equipment. A bedroom with adequate wardrobes and a bathroom with separate shower.
After waking we showered and felt somewhat rested and are now going down to dinner.
Later: Buffet style dinner - food looked good and was.

Wednesday 23 November 2005
Left Sandton at 7.45am after rising at 5.45 this morning.
On way to Kruger

Drove via Benoni and Witbank to Numbi Gate. This was a longer trip than Joe had expected and Joy didn’t stop talking all the way. Pointing out places of interest and telling the history of the country and the Kruger.
On entering the Kruger we first encountered a rhinoceros then a herd of water buffalo crossing the road, a distant elephant and a hippopotamus also at a distance. We then came across a new born impala being eaten by vultures, with its mother nearby who tried to drive off the vultures. It was probably still born.
We then saw another rhino and some elephants closeup.

Someone we passed on the road said there was a leopard at the next turn to a lake but when we arrived there were so many cars there we could only see the leopard’s hind quarters in the long grass. It was sleeping. A few of the idiots were almost out of their cars to see the animal. Very dangerous because everyone's attention was on the leopard and not on anything else which might approach us.
We then had to make tracks for Skukuza where we were to spend the night.
Later: The accommodation is fine with an air conditioned room and bathroom off, and a stoep (veranda) outside with a fridge and sink.
Now Joy is cooking  dinner. Joe has showered and after dinner I shall do the same and then to bed early.
Joe: We have been very lucky to see 4 of the big 5 on our first day in the park. The elephants were very close so we had a good view. Magnificent animals.

Jean has left out that we saw a single hyena walking along the road on our way to Skukuza.

Thursday 24 November 2005
We were up at 3.50 and I think Joy was surprised to find us up and about but having visited before I knew an early start was essential. I had my kitchen timer which was ideal. Small so it didn't take much room in my bag. Set the amount of time you want to sleep and then it goes off when you want.
We set out early and spent the next 14 hours on a game drive with breaks for breakfast and lunch and rest stops for the toilets.  What rewards we have had today - as we drove out of the gate at Skukuza a ‘gaggle’  of banded mongoose went romping by, catching us by surprise.
Had to photograph through the window!

Just down the road was a pack of hyenas who lived under the road. One female was exceedingly pregnant. Then watched as a small elephant family having a mud bath and when the baby saw us he ran towards us a few steps and then bravely trumpeted, to see us off!
Later we came across a large herd of elephant of all ages which crossed the road in front of us and soon had us surrounded. Joy had, of course stopped and switched off the engine. One elephant auntie was just a few yards away and looked very aggressive for a moment, trumpeted just to warn us off and then ambled off after the others. It was a very exciting few moments. One moment they were there and the next they had disappeared into the bush.
Did you get close? someone asked. Errr. yes!

As the day progressed we saw impala, rhino, buffalo, crocodile and baboons etc before we arrived at a place where lions had made a kill and were sleeping off their meal.

We saw much else and had an excellent game viewing day but the elephants made it for us. They were what we really wanted to see.
When we returned to Skukuza it was to discover that the monkeys had raided the fridge and taken all the bananas and other fruit and had made quite a mess. The maid had cleaned it up but I think she was worried in case we thought she had stolen the fruit.
As we sat after dinner an empty yoghurt pot fell out of the tree next to the bungalow and two bush babies appeared and Joy ran for the torch so that Joe could film them.

Friday 25 November 2005
Joe’s back has totally frozen up on him completely and the pain really shows on his face. We set out early again and saw several lions walking down the road, very exciting. We could have reached out and touched them they were so close, but didn’t, of course!
Joe had been taken so many pain killers for his back that they have caused a nose bleed. Our next camp was Satara and after we booked in Joe decided to stay behind to lie down but because there were still a couple of hours before dinner Joy took me on a drive. At a river crossing we saw a green heron close up and a small crocodile. I won‘t go into details about the elephant we passed, nor include a photo. He was standing by the side of the road in a state of arousal!! I will say however that Joy and I joked about it and relayed the details back to Joe when we arrived back.

Saturday 26 November 2005
Drove to Oliphants. The river was very dry there because the water is being taken for the sugar factories which is considered much more important because it brings money into the country.
Joe had another nose bleed but not nearly as bad as yesterday. On our return journey to the camp we passed someone who told us there was a lion up ahead on a road off to the right. This we took just as a lightening storm brought the rain down in torrents. The dirt road was flooded for a while and we parked and waited for it to stop and then continued on, skidding all over the muddy track. Eventually we saw the male lion lying in the long grass a little way off the road. We watched him for quarter of an hour or so while he looked round at us and decided we weren’t worth bothering about. Then we had to make tracks back to the camp because the gates would soon close.

Sunday 27 November 2005
We return to Sandton today and are leaving by the Orpen Gate. On the way we saw ostrich but the piece de resistance were three bull elephants who came ambling down the road in front of us. Joy stopped the car and and they continued approaching until about 30 feet away from us when they stopped and the one in the front turned and seemed to be consulting with the other two.



He then turned and they continued on towards us and just as Joy was thinking of starting the engine and getting out of their way they turned off the road and took a path parallel to us. It was almost as though they had conferred and decided not to face up to us.
We left the park shortly after and the area immediately outside was crowded with badly built small houses built on tribal land. which were cramped and clustered together. Rubbish lay all along the side of the road.
We had hoped to take a scenic route back but the weather was extremely overcast and it rained heavily at times. It stopped briefly so we were able to drive in to see Pilgrim’s Rest an old gold mining town, now a historic site.
The lion sleeps

Then drove through a town called Belfast, quite an awful place.
We next stopped at a popular souvenir shop and I bought a couple of glass elephants, one of which I gave to Joy at the hotel, just  before she left us.

Monday 28th November 2005
Joe and I went into Sandton by taxi, Joy having told us it was too dangerous to walk in. Went into the mall and had a wander around and bought a china elephant, had a coffee and took photos of the Christmas display. Then our taxi driver returned to take us back.

We were having drinks at the hotel when Joy arrived with gifts of a soapstone elephant for me and some mango chutney for Joe. Showed all the photos I had taken (over 1000) and we again thanked her for a wonderful trip to the Kruger. She said it would be a pleasure to take us to the Kalahari if we ever wanted to go because we were her ideal customers. She said she didn’t ask all her clients to go to the Kalahari but we had shown an interest in everything we saw and were easy to get on with.
For us, apart from never stopping talking which even then was full of interest, she was was the ideal guide. At our beck and call and had made all the arrangements in the Kruger, did all the cooking and washing up and was there for us every moment apart from when we were sleeping. She took great care of us and we would certainly recommend her tours. Joe and I both feel this is the best hioliday we have ever had.

We returned to our room after lunch for a short sleep because we were due to  leave for the airport at 5.30pm. While sleeping I received a phone call from Ann (Dot). She had been trying to contact us since our arrival back yesterday and had left numerous messages for us because they wanted to come in and see us before we left. None of these messages had been passed on to us and now, since we were soon leaving, it was too late for them to get to Sandton. I apologised to her and said how upset I was that the hotel had not passed on her messages because we’d had plenty of time to meet them today.
I was really angry and went to Reception and asked about the messages and the manager at first denying they had received any until I told him the person concerned had actually called in and left a message at the desk. He then admitted that messages had been received and not passed on. I was really very angry and told them that my daughter had wanted to see me before we left and this was probably the last time I would ever see her. It was very disappointing.

Wednesday 30 November 2005
The journey back was in similar seating to the journey out and, as expected, uncomfortable  made even worse by the fact that people again stood behind us and talked loudly in the middle of the night. The stewardesses refused to ask them to speak quietly or do anything to stop them annoying other passengers. The film was the War of the Worlds but the noise of the engines made listening difficult.
Since we arrived back we have been sleeping a lot probably because of the long journey and all those early mornings.
We agreed it was one of the best holidays we have ever had, despite Joe's back, and one we shall always remember.

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